Essaouira is where the wind lives. The whole Atlantic seems to push directly into this whitewashed port city, which is why it's a world-class kitesurfing destination and also why I spent two hours on the ramparts with sand in my teeth.
Ate grilled sardines from the port for lunch — four dirhams, fresh off the boat. The light here is almost Scandinavian in quality, which makes no sense given the latitude. Perhaps the constant wind clears something from the air.