Every photo you've seen of Hội An's lantern-lit Ancient Town is true — but none of them capture the smell of star anise and charcoal grills rising off the river at dusk. Or the way the lantern light makes everyone's face go warm and s
Ate bánh mì from the famous Phượng stall (queue started at 6:30am, I learned too late), then cab à phê sữa đá cold brew until my hands shook.
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